Product updates are changing regularly, some Car Solutions may say out of stock. BUT- Please confirm via email or we can design a system that is equal too or better for the same price, so it is best to contact us. Please understand it's hard to guarantee exact delivery.
How to choose a good Amplifier. Which amplifier would you buy?
Amplifier 1
-@ 4 Ohm 4 x 150 watts
-signal-to-noise 112 dB (A-weighted)
-total harmonic distortion (THD) < 0.007%
-damping factor > 1000
Amplifier 2
– @ 4 Ohm 4 x 200 watts
-signal-to-noise 100 dB
-total harmonic distortion (THD) < 1%
-damping factor > 80
Many years ago, consumers were generally knowledgeable about looking for the RMS (Root Mean Square) power rating on an amplifier, which indicated the “supposed” continuous output power. However, amplifier manufacturers seeking to sell products based on impressive numbers rather than actual quality took advantage of this.
As a result, the RMS rating no longer served as an “apples for apples” comparison. Without a clear understanding of what various specifications meant, consumers could easily be misled.
To address this issue, a standard called CEA-2006 was created. This certification ensured that the RMS numbers were achieved in a consistent manner across brands. Unfortunately, the standard did not gain widespread adoption. Although a few quality brands embraced it, there was insufficient public education to help consumers understand the significance of these ratings.
Understanding amplifier specifications remains crucial for making informed purchasing decisions. It’s important for consumers to delve deeper into the technical details and not rely solely on RMS ratings or other seemingly impressive figures. By doing so, they can better assess the true performance and quality of an amplifier.
So what are we looking for ?
THD
Frequency response
Operating Voltage
(there are many more, but this is basic review)
THD – Total Harmonic Distortion – should be a rated output power.(not 80%, 30% of rated power) we are looking for numbers of one 1 percent or lower, but the lower the better. There is no use having 10 % THD, this will cook speakers and is not listenable.
Frequency Response – what range of frequencies are being used at rated power and how flat is the response or the amplifier across this range. As a minimum we want 20hz to 20khz because there is the “general range” of human hearing, yes there is a lot to discuss about this, but again basic review.
Operating Voltage – Most amplifiers have an acceptable range for input voltage Example 9 to 16 volts. Our cars (without engine running) will be around 12 volt, with engine running will be around 13.8 to 14.4, this voltage can influence the amps output power. So if the rated power is achieved at 12 volt, most will increase at 13.8. But if the amp is at 14.4, this is the very most it will output in the real world.
Now, is any of this an indication of how an amplifier will sound? No, but it may give you an indication of what that brand represents and how they are willing to manipulate figures to make their product appear better. You need to ask why a brand has to try so hard to make their amp look so good on paper. If you just build a good product, news will travel fast and the people that care will find you. So, going back to our original question. Which amp is better? It is clear to see. Amp 1 would be superior